For the tight shots, use the best lens you have that shoots close. Shoot as close as the camera will let you focus. For the wide “overview” shots, use the best wide-angle you’ve got. And use a camera that renders color well. I swear I’ll scream if one more person tells me how great their telephone is.
TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES. Take three times as many as you think you should because a lot of them won’t be what you want or expect, especially if you are using auto-focus. Now that we are all shooting digital and don’t have to worry about the cost of development, there’s no reason to NOT take a lot of pictures. You’ll get the best flower shots on bright overcast days. Full direct sunlight is difficult because of the sharp shadows, but if that’s what you’ve got to work with, do what you can. *Try to avoid standing in your own light*. Shoot from a variety of angles, closer, further, sideways. SHOOT A LOT OF PICTURES. Really.
After that, it helps to have some good software. I think added all together, my software cost as much as a camera. It makes a difference. It doesn’t matter much when you are taking pictures under optimum conditions … the light is just right, all’s well with the world. Unfortunately, you can hope but you can’t count on the weather. Some stuff will just fall right out of the camera perfect, but other stuff will need help back at the computer.
I get my best flower stuff using my two Olympus PEN cameras, either the E-P3 or the brand new I’m so in love with it PM2. I put the wide-angle 14mm Panasonic f/2.8 on one camera and the 45mm (portrait) f/1.8 on the other because I find it a lot easier to change cameras than change lenses. I shoot the “broad pictures” with the wide angle and the tight shots with the portrait lens (great for human portraits, too :-). Out of 100 shots, I will get half a dozen that are gorgeous, though there will be quite a lot of duplication … other shots that are equally gorgeous but so similar that there’s no point in working on both. Sometimes I do anyhow, just to see if I can do something different on each.
If I am not planning to go shooting, I nontheless will have my little Canon S100 in my purse. It’s got a zoom on it not quite as good as the prime lenses I mentioned earlier, but it is very good. I have done much of my best work using it. The maxim that the best camera is the one you have with you is true — and I always have that one with me. AND a spare battery.
Seriously: the trick (if you could call it a trick) is use a good lens and shoot a lot. My mom used to say “plant a lot of seeds, you’re bound to get a few radishes.” She was right 🙂
They were the very last two pots of them from this nursery that always has the best plants. If I’d shown up half an hour later, I’d have had to get yellow, which are also gorgeous, but that red is something else 🙂
SERENDIPITY: SEEKING INTELLIGENT LIFE ON EARTH 
WONDERFUL color!! They’re ALIVE!
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And, thanks to our excursion to acquire watering cans yesterday, will hopefully remain so!
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Fabulous color! I would love to spend a day learning your techniques! Great work Marilyn!
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For the tight shots, use the best lens you have that shoots close. Shoot as close as the camera will let you focus. For the wide “overview” shots, use the best wide-angle you’ve got. And use a camera that renders color well. I swear I’ll scream if one more person tells me how great their telephone is.
TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES. Take three times as many as you think you should because a lot of them won’t be what you want or expect, especially if you are using auto-focus. Now that we are all shooting digital and don’t have to worry about the cost of development, there’s no reason to NOT take a lot of pictures. You’ll get the best flower shots on bright overcast days. Full direct sunlight is difficult because of the sharp shadows, but if that’s what you’ve got to work with, do what you can. *Try to avoid standing in your own light*. Shoot from a variety of angles, closer, further, sideways. SHOOT A LOT OF PICTURES. Really.
After that, it helps to have some good software. I think added all together, my software cost as much as a camera. It makes a difference. It doesn’t matter much when you are taking pictures under optimum conditions … the light is just right, all’s well with the world. Unfortunately, you can hope but you can’t count on the weather. Some stuff will just fall right out of the camera perfect, but other stuff will need help back at the computer.
I get my best flower stuff using my two Olympus PEN cameras, either the E-P3 or the brand new I’m so in love with it PM2. I put the wide-angle 14mm Panasonic f/2.8 on one camera and the 45mm (portrait) f/1.8 on the other because I find it a lot easier to change cameras than change lenses. I shoot the “broad pictures” with the wide angle and the tight shots with the portrait lens (great for human portraits, too :-). Out of 100 shots, I will get half a dozen that are gorgeous, though there will be quite a lot of duplication … other shots that are equally gorgeous but so similar that there’s no point in working on both. Sometimes I do anyhow, just to see if I can do something different on each.
If I am not planning to go shooting, I nontheless will have my little Canon S100 in my purse. It’s got a zoom on it not quite as good as the prime lenses I mentioned earlier, but it is very good. I have done much of my best work using it. The maxim that the best camera is the one you have with you is true — and I always have that one with me. AND a spare battery.
Seriously: the trick (if you could call it a trick) is use a good lens and shoot a lot. My mom used to say “plant a lot of seeds, you’re bound to get a few radishes.” She was right 🙂
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Thank you so very much!!
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Beautiful….can I have some:) Love the color!
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They were the very last two pots of them from this nursery that always has the best plants. If I’d shown up half an hour later, I’d have had to get yellow, which are also gorgeous, but that red is something else 🙂
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